Oh, Milos. I’ve fallen completely in love with this quiet Greek island. It’s one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever stepped foot upon. Full of character and natural beauty.
I visited in September, when the weather was still warm, but the crowds were a little quieter. I think September is the best time to visit Milos, because you’re able to experience the natural beauty of the island at a relaxed pace, and there are simply fewer other people to disturb your holiday.
Where is Milos?
If you’ve never heard of Milos, it’s a Greek island just a few hours away from Santorini by boat, and a little further away from Athens. Milos is the birthplace of the famous Venus de Milo sculpture and has rapidly turned into an unearthed ‘hidden gem’ on the international travel scene.
Where to stay in Milos?
For the first four nights, we stayed at Psilandis Studios in Adamas. Psilandis is a beautiful, ideally-located B&B run by a lovely husband-and-wife couple, Doerte and Ian Mallis. For the second half of our trip, we moved to Pollonia and stayed at Salt Suites Milos. Salt is a luxury executive beachfront suite and was one of the most incredible places I’ve ever stayed in. I’d highly recommend both accommodations.
HOW EASY IS MILOS TO NAVIGATE?
Milos is a very easy island to navigate on wheels. We rented a dusty little Fiat and it got us around just fine. Driving from one end of the island to the other literally only takes an hour. I’d recommend hiring a car so that you can explore the different beaches and villages in your own time, at your own pace.
A Quick Guide to Milos
Highlights + 10 Things to Do
I’ve put together this guide to Milos including my top 10 things to do on the island, as well as some recommendations on the most beautiful beaches we visited while we were there. Enjoy.
Walk on the moon at Sarakiniko Beach, a stunning limestone seascape. Try to get there at sunrise or sunset.
I’d seen stunning visuals of Sarakiniko Beach doing the rounds on Instagram. The real thing was even better. We visited Sarakiniko at sunset on our first day in Milos.
I was awestruck by its hauntingly beautiful lunar landscape and swirling seas, lit up by dramatic purple and pink skies. We woke up early and returned for sunrise a few days later to see Sarakiniko in a completely different light (literally). It was one of the most breathtaking, romantic sunrises I’ve had - and it felt like we standing were on another planet.
2. Explore Klima fishing village
Explore the traditional syrmata (fisherman’s houses) built into the coastline in Klima, then stay for a glorious sunset.
Klima. What a unbelievably beautiful place. Wander this fishing village, oozing with charm and uniqueness. Careful when walking on the rocks - the waves will get you. Catch sunset here, either on the end of a pier, or with a drink in hand, watching the sky turn from blue to orange to pink to purple.
3. Take an island cruise — go snorkelling around Kleftiko
Glide around in turquoise volcanic waters, ancient limestone caves and spot transparent fish darting about.
The hidden rock formations of Kleftiko (Bandits’ Lair) can only be reached by boat. I loved gliding around and chasing the little transparent fish darting around. The distances between the formations are deceptively far, so get your stamina up for this one. Flippers and snorkel optional, but recommended — the water is extremely salty and will definitely sting your eyes!
4. Climb up the Sykia sea cave
Known as the Emerald Cave, or Blue Cave, this curious sea cavern in Milos has a collapsed roof and is only accessible via dinghy through its small arched entrance. The water is a bright, crystal clear turquoise, and the rock formations are startlingly white. The inner rock formations are fascinating.
We sailed with Polco Sailing - they were amazing.
5. Eat fresh seafood in Pollonia
Fresh seabass, lobster, squid or sardines. Pollonia’s seafront restaurants have it all. Best enjoyed with a cool drink.
The moment we drove into Pollonia, I knew, just knew that the seafront town would have epic seafood. In the sleepy afternoon, chalkboards with set dinner options heralded the good things to come. Our favourite restaurant in Pollonia was Gialos. We ate there twice, not only because the food was amazing, but because the staff were SO KIND AND GENEROUS. The restaurant was packed, but they went above and beyond to bring out an extra table and chairs. They sat us under a tree on the pier by the water, just so we could have dinner there. Now that is customer service.
6. Sunbathe at Paliochori Beach
Part red rocks, part golden sand, all scorching hot. Swim, sunbathe, and explore at this wind-protected beach spot.
The water is clear and blue, encompassed by a ring of limestone rock, which merges with volcanic black sand in some parts of the beach. The sun-loungers are quintessentially European, blue-and-white stripes with matching parasols. It’s a little nook unplugged from the world, protected from the wind, surrounded by rocks and water. The seabed is made up of rocks, too. Lovely ones. Marbles and pink glass and flat black stones, perfect for skimming.
7. Fresh Greek salad with a view
Enjoy a fresh Greek salad with local Milos cheese in Plaka, over a stunning view of the bright blue ocean.
If there’s one thing I love about visiting Greece, it’s the Greek salad. Big, juicy red vine tomatoes. Cool, crisp cucumbers. Best of all, thick and delicious feta cheese. I’m guilty of eating Greek salad every day when I’m in the country, and Milos was no different. But on the island, it was Greek salad with a twist - Milos cheese. We loved it, and ate ours with a view over the twinkling blue sea at noon. Check out Ergina Restaurant, and then for a delicious dinner, try Barriello. Fantastic octopus.
8. Watch the sun set and the moon rise — at the same time!
Milos is unique in its geography, in that the island is so flat, you can see the moon rise as the sun sets, and vice versa.
The moon and the sun, hanging in the same sky? You’ve never seen a twilight like this. We spotted this phenomenon twice. First, when we were gliding through the ocean at sunset, as our cruise ship was headed back to Adamas port, and then again as we drove to the airport at sunrise. The sun was setting in a blaze of orange in the west, whilst to the east, a twinkling white moon was rising in a cloud of purple. What a sight.
9. Enjoy the cheap and epic gyros/souvlaki in Adamas
It’s Greece’s answer to fish and chips, but way better.
If you find yourself in Adamas, hankering for a satisfying lunch or dinner that isn’t too costly, go for souvlaki. We found an incredible seafront tavern called Gyros of Milos packed full of locals and tourists alike, with a straightforward menu of gyros, souvlaki, chips (french fries) and salad. Gyros is essentially meat, onion, tomato and tzatziki sauce served up in pita, whereas souvlaki is grilled vegetables and skewers. (If I’ve got that wrong, feel free to correct me in the comments!) A hefty meal for two with a couple of drinks cost us €13. Not bad at all.
10. Rent a car and get lost
Just by driving around the island, we stumbled across some gorgeous beach gems. Fyropotamos, for one, and Papafragas for another.
We had a dusty silver manual Fiat Panda that struggled uphill from Tourlakis rental cars - and we absolutely loved it. Radio, aircon, windows, easy driving. No AUX cord, but that was fine with us. My favourite thing about exploring by car, especially on little islands in Europe, is that your sense of discovery stays switched on, and you get to hang out with your familiar friend, wanderlust.
Thanks so much for reading my guide to Milos. If you’ve got any questions about visiting Milos for the first time, let me know by leaving a comment below. Efharisto!
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Mel left London to chase summer around the world, one country at a time. She loves the ocean, writing postcards, and solo exploration. Travel with her on Instagram.