Ms. May Kieu’s Homestay Review – Ta Phin, Sapa, Vietnam
Are you interested in a homestay in Sapa, Vietnam? Are you looking for a review of Ms. May Kieu’s Homestay in Ta Phin?
In September 2015, whilst backpacking from North to South Vietnam with two friends, we stayed at Ms. May Kieu’s Homestay in Ta Phin Village, Sapa.
Fellow travellers had recommended that we stay with locals to appreciate the rural way of life in Sapa, so after a little googling, we decided on a two-night homestay in Ta Phin village with May Kieu, whose family belongs to the Red Dao Hilltribe.
I had an absolutely amazing time during the homestay.
So in this post, I’ll share my experience of a traditional homestay in Sapa, Vietnam, and share tips on what to bring to a homestay, what to expect from a homestay in Sapa, and what you need to know before doing a homestay in Sapa.
Let’s jump in!
You can read my original blogpost here: A Homestay in Sapa.
Where is Ms. May Kieu’s Homestay in Sapa, Vietnam?
An ethnically rich and popular trekking destination, Sapa sits on the Hoàng Liên Son Mountains overlooking the terraced rice fields of the Muong Hoa Valley.
Ms. May Kieu’s Homestay is in Ta Phin Village – around a two-hour walk from the town centre, almost 5000 feet above sea level.
How much does a homestay cost in Sapa, Vietnam?
One week prior to our flights to Vietnam, we emailed Kathy Cull, who runs May Kieu’s website, to book an overnight stay. Kathy is a Canadian woman who met May Kieu in 2011 and spent six weeks in the village to help May Kieu’s family build a homestay. She took photos, developed their website, and is their in-between communication person who helps book trips online.
Kathy responded to our email promptly, and our spaces were officially reserved. It cost us $35 each for a two day, one night stay – which is on the expensive side compared to the majority of hostels and hotels in Vietnam as a whole, but a respectable price for an experience that not only contributes to a tourist’s experience of a cultural area, but also, goes towards helping an entrepreneurial rural family carve out a profitable livelihood for themselves and their children.
Kathy’s email told us that the cost would be $35 USD per person including our homestay, transportation to and from the village, and three meals with traditional drink. She also gave us directions.
Ms. May Kieu’s Homestay: Room & Amenities
Everything was extremely basic – of course, it’s a rural homestay – those accustomed to luxury and basic amenities such as a shower will be displeased (although they were currently in the middle of building a Western toilet, which is possibly finished now). The bathroom was tiled with hot water and a flushing toilet.
We had a relatively large bedroom. Our door was wooden with a manual metal slide lock. There were two double beds, with mattresses made up of large foam blocks with wooden frames, large mosquito nets, pillows, and sheets. The beds were perfectly adequate, although the foam was hard. There was a window with a small curtain, but no glass panel. Make sure your mozzie net is down!
The family gave us plenty of bottled water and we were extremely well fed with three generous meals per day. There were little shops selling junk food and toiletries along the roadsides if anything – about a 15 minute walk or 5 minute bike ride away.
A Review of Ms. May Kieu’s Homestay in Ta Phin Village, Sapa, Vietnam
After departing Hanoi at midnight on an overnight bus, we reached Sapa before noon. We walked in parallel to Sapa Lake towards the town, quietly remarking upon the chilly breeze, the atmospheric presence of the mountains, and the lack of other people around, save for the occasional local or fellow backpacker that suddenly appeared from the mist.
Once we reached the main street of restaurants and shops, we searched for Le Gecko Restaurant, where we were scheduled to meet May Kieu. We had a great lunch, after which May Kieu rode up to us on a motorbike and greeted us with her cousin, Pham. May Kieu loaded our backpacks onto her bike, put on her helmet, and sped away into the mist. Pham put us into a taxi that took us to the foot of the mountains, organized and paid for by them.
From there, we walked. Local children pushed small trays filled with bracelets and handicrafts at us as we passed, which we politely declined. We had read somewhere that we were not to buy anything from the locals unless it was an official tourist shop in Sapa.
It took us two hours to get to Ta Phin, probably because we kept stopping to marvel at the view. We were still able to make good time, arriving by sundown.
What You Need To Know Before Doing A Homestay in Sapa, Vietnam
- Make sure you bring any medications necessary – malaria tablets, diabetes medication, allergy pills, paracetamol and so on. The nearest hospital is a while away and local pharmacies, if there are any, may not have what you need.
- Bring supportive hiking shoes or sneakers. You’ll be climbing over rocks, streams and marshy mud. Hiking shoes, or at least supportive sneakers, are a must – especially if it’s raining.
- It can get extremely noisy in the morning – cocks crowing, dogs barking – but it’s mountain life. At night, the rice terraces are absolutely silent. Drink it all in!
- Give yourself some time to settle in Vietnam before heading to Sapa. I’d waitat least a few days before tackling Sapa! I had difficulty falling asleep, even after the long trek up and relaxing herbal bath. It was a mixture of jetlag and being able to feel the mattress, a.k.a. foam blocks, beneath my back.
- Expect creatures and creepy-crawlies! Geckos, spiders, cats, puppies, buffalo…
- Bring cash to buy local souvenirs. After dinner, May Kieu and her family showed us a table full of homemade crafts – such as weaved bracelets, traditional clothing and purses – that they were selling. We bought three bracelets and two purses. Good quality and for a good cause!
- Check out the local market. About a twenty minute walk away is the local village and market, which sells food, arts and crafts. The amount of houses springing up everywhere, under construction, is really quite impressive.
- Be careful of street food! After two weeks in Vietnam I started getting blisters on my hands, feet and throat. When I got back to London I was diagnosed with gastroenterital HFMD (a kid’s disease!). It takes 2 weeks to develop, so I caught it by eating something dodgy at some point in Sapa or Hanoi.
- Be conservative and respectful. Remember to be respectful, dress warmly and conservatively, and have fun!
